When your electric stove element, the coil or solid heating unit under the glass surface that generates heat for cooking. Also known as a hob element, it’s the part that actually gets hot when you turn on the burner. Without it, your stove is just a fancy countertop. That’s it. No glow, no heat, no dinner. It’s not magic—it’s physics. And like any physical part, it wears out. You might think it’s the control panel, the fuse, or even the outlet—but 80% of the time, it’s just the electric stove element itself that’s done.
Related to this are a few key parts you should know: the hob element replacement, the exact part you buy to swap out a failed heating coil, the electric oven repair, a broader category that includes fixing elements, thermostats, and wiring in both ovens and hobs, and the cooktop heating element, the same thing as a stove element, just called differently by manufacturers. These aren’t just synonyms—they’re parts of the same system. If your front burner won’t heat but the back one does, it’s likely one element gone bad. If none of them work, you might have a bigger issue with the control board or power supply.
Most people panic when the element stops working. They call an electrician, who might charge $100 just to show up, only to find out the fix costs $30 and takes 15 minutes. You don’t need an electrician—you need someone who knows appliance parts. Electricians fix wiring. Appliance technicians fix broken coils, cracked terminals, and faulty connections inside the stove. The element itself is usually easy to replace: unplug the stove, remove the screws holding the element in place, disconnect the two wires, plug in the new one, and screw it back in. No special tools. No guesswork. Just follow the wires.
But here’s the catch: not all elements are the same. They come in different sizes, wattages, and connector types. A 2,000-watt element won’t work in a socket made for 1,500 watts. And if you buy the wrong one, you’ll waste time, money, and maybe even trip the breaker. That’s why knowing your model number matters. Look on the inside of the oven door or under the cooktop—most manufacturers print it there. Then match it to the replacement part. No guessing.
And don’t ignore the signs before it dies. If the element glows unevenly, has dark spots, or bulges in the middle, it’s on its way out. If you smell burning plastic or see sparks when you turn it on, turn it off. That’s not normal. That’s a fire risk. A failing element doesn’t always die suddenly—it gives you warnings. You just have to pay attention.
Some folks try to tape or solder broken wires on old elements. Don’t. That’s dangerous. The element runs at high temperatures and high current. Tape melts. Solder flows. What you think is a fix is just a ticking time bomb. Replace it. It’s cheaper than a new stove. And safer than your neighbor’s advice.
Below, you’ll find real fixes from people who’ve been there. No theory. No fluff. Just what actually works when your stove stops heating up. Whether it’s a simple swap, a wiring mistake, or a hidden fuse issue—you’ll find the answer here, written by someone who’s held the broken piece in their hands and knows exactly what to do next.
Learn how to tell if your electric stove element is bad with simple visual checks and a multimeter test. Discover common signs, how to replace it yourself, and when to call a pro.
